Fragrance-Free and Unscented: What the Labels Mean

Two bottles of lotion sit side by side. One says “fragrance-free,” the other “unscented,” and neither smells of much. It is reasonable to assume they are the same thing. They are not, and the difference matters most to the people who are trying hardest to avoid fragrance.

The two definitions

Fragrance-free

In general use, this means no fragrance ingredients have been added to the product: nothing to give it a scent and nothing to cover one up. A fragrance-free product can still have a smell, because raw ingredients have odors of their own. It just has not been perfumed or deodorized.

Unscented

This means the finished product has no noticeable scent. That result can be reached by adding fragrance. The FDA explains that some products labeled unscented may contain fragrance ingredients, because the manufacturer may add just enough fragrance to mask the unpleasant smell of other ingredients without giving the product a noticeable scent.

Put simply: “Unscented” describes how a product smells. “Fragrance-free” describes what is in it.

The American Academy of Dermatology draws the same line. Its guidance on dry skin recommends products labeled fragrance-free and warns that unscented products may contain chemicals that neutralize or hide odors, which can irritate dry, sensitive skin.

“Unscented” describes how a product smells. “Fragrance-free” describes what is in it.

Why this matters to some people and not others

Plenty of people use scented products for a lifetime without any trouble, and enjoying fragrance is a perfectly good reason to choose it. The distinction is for those who want or have been advised to avoid it.

The FDA notes that some components of fragrance formulas may have the potential to cause allergic reactions or sensitivities in some people. The AAD advises avoiding fragrance in moisturizers for dry skin because it can be irritating. If you are in either group, a product that smells of nothing but contains a masking fragrance is not what you were looking for.

How firm are these terms?

Less firm than they look. They are label claims made by the manufacturer. The practical advice from the FDA for anyone concerned about fragrance sensitivity is to choose fragrance-free products and to check the ingredient list carefully, which is a sign that the front of the pack is not the last word.

Some certification programs do tie the term to a written standard. The US Environmental Protection Agency’s Safer Choice program, for example, has a separate Fragrance-Free label for certified products that are “free of any fragrance ingredients.” That is one program’s rule for the products it certifies. It is not a general rule that every “fragrance-free” claim on a cosmetic has to meet.

What to check, in order

1. The exact wording on the front

“Fragrance-free” is the stronger claim. “Unscented,” “no added perfume,” “lightly scented” and “naturally scented” all leave room for fragrance ingredients.

2. The ingredient list for the word itself

In the United States, fragrance ingredients can be listed collectively as “fragrance.” Under EU rules, perfume and aromatic compositions are listed as “parfum” or “aroma.” If you see any of those words, fragrance has been added, whatever the front says. The FDA notes that the individual components do not have to be named, since fragrance formulas can be protected as trade secrets.

The ingredient list is short work once you know its layout; how to read a moisturizer label goes through it from top to bottom.

3. Botanical ingredients

A product can be free of “fragrance” as a listed ingredient and still contain scented plant materials. The AAD points out that products with plant-based botanical ingredients may still contain fragrance-related ingredients. Essential oils and plant extracts with a strong natural scent are the usual examples. “Natural” does not mean unscented, and it does not mean a product will suit you.

4. Your nose, with limits

Smelling a product tells you whether it has a scent. It cannot tell you whether a masking fragrance is present, since the whole purpose of a masking fragrance is to go unnoticed. A faint, slightly waxy or fatty smell in a fragrance-free product is normal: that is the base.

5. The company, if you still cannot tell

The FDA suggests contacting the manufacturer directly with questions about fragrance ingredients. The company name and address are on the pack.

Related label words, briefly

“Hypoallergenic.” The FDA states that there are no federal standards or definitions governing this term and that it means whatever a particular company wants it to mean. A hypoallergenic product can be scented.

“For sensitive skin.” A statement of intent from the brand. Check the ingredient list in the same way.

“Fragrance” versus “flavor.” In lip products, scent and taste ingredients may appear as “flavor.” The FDA says flavor ingredients can be listed collectively in the same manner as fragrance.

Scenarios

You have been told to avoid fragrance, or you know it bothers your skin. Choose products labeled fragrance-free, confirm that the list has no “fragrance,” “parfum” or “aroma,” and look at the botanicals. Apply the same check to everything that stays on your skin: moisturizer, sunscreen, makeup remover, hand cream.

Your skin is dry or easily irritated, and you are unsure about fragrance. Fragrance-free is the cautious default the AAD recommends. If dryness is the main issue, dry or dehydrated skin? covers what else helps.

You simply dislike strong scents. Either label may suit you. Unscented products are designed to smell neutral, which may be all you are after.

You love fragrance. Then wear it. One approach some people like is to keep everyday skincare fragrance-free and get scent from a perfume chosen on purpose. If that appeals, how to try a fragrance without buying the first one is a good place to begin.

The steps for a home trial are in introducing a new skincare product.